Monday, May 18, 2009

School's Out

Schools out in Cambodia! This video is cute, of all the kids leaving school for the day on their bicycles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A73ukWekXK0

Kampung Phluk Village, Cambodia

So, I have been telling you all about this amazing village I visited in Cambodia. Well, my friend Emily, who was also on the trek with me, got a great video and interview with our tour guide, Kim. I hope you watch it as we describes what every day life is like in this rural village!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIjKObiVWQs

Cambodia Pictures!


Finally I was able to upload all of my pictures from Cambodia! Check out my album below!

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Our First Room to Read site visit in Cambodia


Monday morning we hopped on our green bus that would take us all over the country for the week. This morning it headed to the country office so we could meet more of our in-country staff and also see the office. It was pretty cool to see. Volunteering for a non-profit and raising funds is difficult when all you really have to go by when representing Room to Read is information and pictures that our global office provides us with. But seeing everything in person and meeting many of our country staff was really great for me to see. It validated Room to Read’s professionalism and my confidence in them as an organization. We also got some awakening statistics about Cambodia’s education system. So in Cambodia, there is a public school system that is mandatory for children to attend through grade 6, however, it is very loosely enforced. The reality is, most families are truly living on less than $1 a day and rely heavily on child labor. And even though school is free, there are other costs associated with sending your child to school, like uniforms, shoes, school supplies and transportation. So while the majority are enrolled in primary school, their attendance is very inconsistent (which is also due to the weather conditions paired with lack of developed and paved roads). And once the kids finish primary school, the majority do not continue onto secondary school. The number of secondary schools also drop off and if children do wish to continue and their parent’s agree, they must trek even farther to get to that school, in most cases, many many kilometers. This information was really great to hear at the beginning of our trek, but it really made all the difference seeing these facts with my own eyes as the week went on.

So after our presentation by the staff, we headed off to see our first Room to Read project, a library Room to Read built at the Dangkor Primary and Secondary School. As the bus pulled up one by one we stepped onto the school grounds and entered the welcoming line of students that began at the beginning of the school gate to the front office. Over 100 students welcomed us to their school with leis made with gardenia and enormous smiles. It was breathtaking. And like all other trekkers who also were experiencing this type of welcome from the kids and headmasters for the first time, I cried tears of joy, tears of pure joy that Room to Read is doing amazing work with the money that is being donated. Reality hit me that these kids are truly thankful for being able to have access to books, a library, a space to read, explore, learn, create, and do. I felt honored that I got to represent Room to Read and receive the appreciation from the educators as well. I was torn by videotaping the entrance or just being present in the moment and experiencing the joy as I walked through the line of students. I walked with the camera off and tried to make eye contact and smile at each and every one of those students. In my mind, that smile was my way of saying Thank you for showing up to school today and learning. Thank you for riding your bicycle 45 minutes each way to and from work so that you can learn today. Thank you for being brave and fighting for your own education even when your family may be suffering financially because they need you to work in the rice fields or at the temple selling scarves. Thank you.


We didn’t get to interact too much with the kids that day as our visit was cut short by the school bell dismissing the students for the day at 11am. Oh yes, 11am. In Cambodia, school is only in session for half day, but 6 days a week. From what I gathered from our tour guide and our Cambodia staff, it’s because the families can’t afford to have their children gone all day. They need their children’s help each day at the home or making money. While it may not sit well with us here, it needs to happen in Cambodia for families to survive. Child labor is a necessity for families here. We did have a few kids meandering around us after the bell rang, and we got to take some photos of and with them, but it was difficult to interact with them. I knew that we would visit other projects throughout the week and I hoped that we would get that chance. While we were there, we did get to see the library the Room to Read, and the local community built in 2006. It was nice and clean, with open windows, lots of natural lighting and most importantly lots of local language books for the kids to read. All those pictures I’ve been looking at have now come to life!

The Arrival to Cambodia,continued

As you can tell by my previous blog entries, it’s been difficult for me to grasp that beauty and poverty aren’t mutually exclusive. In Cambodia, they both exist simultaneously. So, continuing my journey in Cambodia and our walk around Phnom Penh, Steph and I decided to head back to the hotel. It was getting really hot outside and thought we would visit the hotel pool and cool off before our cocktail reception and dinner with the rest of the trekkers. My first experience of Cambodian food was Sunday night (May 3rd) and it was so tasty. I was at first a little nervous after visiting the open market and seeing all of the raw meat, fruit and vegetables in very unsanitary conditions to any country’s standards but surprisingly the food at the Bopha Phnom Penh Restaurant was amazing! I particularly liked the Fish Amok served in a cup made of banana leaves. On addition to the food, it was a joy to sit with our Room to Read Cambodia in country staff. At my table of 4, all 3 others were from our country staff. What did that mean? Well, let’s just say that Cambodians don’t eat very much…there was lots of extra food left for me! Marco did you tip off Room to Read and tell them to pair me up in this foursome? Jokes aside, it was very nice to get to know the staff that Room to Read has hired in country on a more personal level. I am glad I got the opportunity to sit with them and also learn more about Cambodia. I didn’t know much about the country until I read the Lonely Planet travel guide on the flight here. But it’s always better to find out more first hand. My night ended back at the hotel but not before the country director, Mr. Kall, took a few of us out for some drinks and Phnom Penh nightlife. There really wasn’t much but that was okay. We shared a few beers, some stories and headed back to the hotel on a tuk tuk. Monday was scheduled to be a busy day!

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Back to Seoul

I am here in Seoul again, this time with a 9 hour layover! Luckily Asiana Airlines (the BEST airline ever!) has a lounge for us with beds, showers, and free Internet computers. I am not able to post more pictures or video from Cambodia but will be doing that soon. I figured, since I have such a long layover, I would do a city bus tour of Seoul and be back in time to board my plane. I am a little nervous about it since, in order to even get to this bus tour, I have to take bus #something to another stop to another bus to finally the ticket booth across the street from the blue sign...etc.. you get my point. I'll let you know how it goes!

Thursday, May 7, 2009

The Kids of the Kingdom of Cambodia


And if the previous entry doesnt come close to your heart... check out these pictures....







Its a long road to civilization

So, my trip to Cambodia has been nothing but amazing experience after another. I am struggling with finding balance between poverty and beauty here. By this I mean that to me, everything is so beautiful, simple, free. When we choose to vacation, we choose simple stress free places with no connection to the outside world No cell phones, sometimes no TV (unless you're my husband who needs to have it on 24/7). We choose to stay in huts in Bali, or Tahiti or Fiji. But in Cambodia, its not a choice for the majority of the population. They live like this because its the only option. We visited a village yesterday where we have 10 girls in the community who are on our Room to Grow scholarship and reality set in when we entered the village. It actually set in much before that as it took about 1 hour off the beaten path to even get to the fishing village where these girls lived. We had to take a bus about 45 minutes from Siem Reap. Then from there, we had to all pile into the back of a truck to be transported another 45 minutes to the village. In the rainy season, this area is flooded so we would have had to go by bus, then truck, then by boat to get there. So these girls on scholarship with Room to Read can't even live with their families at all while in school because it is impossible to commute every day by bicycle, their only mode of transportation to even get to school. They have a very generous teacher who boards them until they graduate. The teacher lives about 30 minutes from their secondary school so that they CAN ride their bicycle to class every day. They rarely see their family in the village but are so thankful to be given the opportunity to be in school. Their parents also spoke to us about why it's important for them as well. They know that they are not educated and would like to see more for their children and also hopefully more of a future for their community. Now I know why Room to Read is doing amazing work, so people like these girls and these communities can have access to education so that they can better their own lives and bring back their knowledge to better their community. All of the three girls we visited in their village said that they wanted to be teachers when they graduate from secondary school, because they feel so lucky to have the opportunity to study and learn. All of them said thank you to us, but really, all of us on the trek feel the same way, that those girls are an inspiration to us all that they have to sacrifice so much and go to such lengths to go to school. I wanted to hug each one of them and cry. They are my inspiration!




Kristie Wagner , Debra Lee Loke and Jen Pyle, Thank you so much for being amazing educators and teaching your kids about social entrepreneurship and Room to Read! I have heard how much your kids have raised so far selling wristbands and saving quarters. I know that by the end of the school year 4 more communities will have access to 4 new libraries and 4000 books because of you! Perhaps this village in Cambodia will be one of the beneficiaries. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for supporting this amazing organization and changing the lives of so many children!

Below is a clip of the fishing village we visited yesterday. It may make you cry.... and if it doesn't, I certainly have footage that will.....




Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Pictures from our visits to the Room to Read Projects!




























More Beijing Pictures!


I realized I had one more set of pictures from my last couple of days in Beijing. These were of the art district and going out my last night in town. We didn't quite make it to the World of Susie Wong, but I'll save that for my next trip there with Booty.


Cambodia-Room to Read Site Visit

Hi All,

I am sorry I havent had much time to write while Cambodia. Internet has been hard to come by, even at the nicest hotels, and the connection is slow, so pictures were taking forever. Now we are at Siem Reap at a much nicer hotel. Pictures are still slow to upload, but I have some good stuff to share. For now, I thought I would upload a cool video of the kids from the school we visited today. Room to Read put in a library for the primary school and we got to interact with the kids as we toured the school! The whole experience is so overwhelming and amazing! I can't wait to share my stories!

Monday, May 4, 2009

Beijing Part 3- Pictures!


I everyone. Its really hard to upload pictures from Cambodia because the internet is so slow but here are the last of my pictures from Beijing! Enjoy and hopefully I'll have some up from Cambodia soon!

Miss you all!

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=xzebhg9.5dml2rkp&x=0&y=-t383jr&localeid=en_US

The Arrival







I really can’t believe I am in Cambodia right now. It really is crazy, and I love it. But before I go into how much I love Cambodia, I really want to tell my Booty Butt that I love him so so so much and I wish so badly that he was here sharing this amazing life changing experience with me. I feel like I will forever look at the world differently after this trip and hope to convey this experience as much as possible through my blogging.

So, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital last night (Saturday night at around 10:30pm) Room to Read hired a driver to pick me up from the small airport so even through my flight was delayed and I haven’t had any communication the global office in a few weeks, I was just hoping someone would be their with a sign displaying my name. I was in luck. The San Antonio sign was present, and off I went into someone’s car and off to the Phnom Penh Hotel, a very upscale hotel to Cambodia standards and even to US standards. My roommate, Stephanie was waiting for me in the lobby so after dropping my stuff off at the room, we went down to the lounge and got to know each other better. I couldn’t have been paired up with a better person. Stephanie has traveled all over Southeast Asia and was in Cambodia 8 years ago. It was nice to be with someone who has been here before and can help guide me through it!

This morning we woke up early and decided to do the Lonely Planet’s walking tour of Phnom Penh. We took a tuk tuk (a taxi-like vehicle that entails a motor scooter pulling a carriage) to the starting point, Wat Phonm. From there we walked through the streets of downtown Phnom Penh to the central market, through the French colonial district, by the national library, by all of the embassies, etc. We saw a cycling race just end and awards being given to the first, second and third place finishers. We saw whole families of 5 squish onto 1 motorscooter and ride off into the traffic of Phnom Penh. We walked through the central market and saw local fish and fruit being sold to local people. We also saw monks in their orange robes walking around town or hitching a ride on the back of the motorscooters. There were elephant rides in the parks, and children asking us if they could shine our shoes (I was wearing flip flops btw), and mothers breastfeeding their babies in front of us asking for spare change. I felt like in the 5 hours we explored the city, we got a good taste of the flavor of the Phnom Penh. And I am so glad we got to see if on our feet and in the mix.

May is the beginning of monsoon season in Cambodia. So in addition to the temperature being high 80’s and about 200% humidity (worse than Florida or any place I have been for that matter), it also has crazy rain and thunderstorms in the early and late afternoons. They are usually actually refreshing since the weather is so hot. And trust me when I say that it is impossible to look cute here. I tried. There really just isn’t any point. It is so hot and you just soak through your clothes that you constantly feel dirty and sticky. RAW. I love it. And, now I know I can sleep in a few minutes longer in the mornings. Booty, you know that makes me happy. Just one more snooze!

The people of Cambodia are extremely beautiful, especially the children. I haven’t seen cuter children anywhere in the world, including the US. Much of this country is corrupt and crime is high, but when walking around the city in daylight, I see the beauty of the country beyond the undeniable poverty. It is a place that is trying to get back on its feet after many years of civil war and deterioration of its political trustworthiness and success. It is a country who needs help to build back up their education system so that children have the ability to know or grow to know their fullest potential, to move forward in life, and make a mark somewhere in the world. We stopped half way through our walk when we ran across a tea lounge that serves refreshments. I ordered a banana milkshake and Steph (my roomie) order coconut juice. And off we continued on our walking journey. Streets are chaotic around here although everyone drives fairly slow. I think its just different that no one follows the line going down the middle of the street. I was getting very hot so I bought a hat in a cute little French artict who has a store/booth in the foreigner section of the city.

Okay, I am exhausted..more later... I am falling asleep and it's an early morning tomorrow!

Sunday, May 3, 2009

My Biggest Fear

My biggest fear about this trip was being alone in the airport and not being able to figure out where to go. I wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of the language barriers or signage being in only 1 language. For some reason, it terrified me. So getting to China was fairly easy but somehow, on my way to Cambodia, I messed up and my biggest fear became a reality!

So, our planes had just landed in Guangzhou, China to pick up some other passengers, let some off, and then continue onto Phnom Penh, Cambodia, however, instead of letting the passengers who are continuing onto Phnom Penh stay on the plane, everyone must exit. So, after realizing I was the last on the plane before the flight attendants kicked me off, I quickly gathered my belongings and made my way off the plane. I followed the people in front of me, since I didn’t really know what else to do but still didn’t quite understand what the heck was going on. The flight attendants spoke poor English I couldn’t understand and “Everyone else was doing it”, so I jumped on this shuttle bus and when it stopped, jumped off and followed the passengers into this building…. Okay, I am definitely in the wrong spot. I followed the passengers whose final destination was Guangzhou and found myself in the baggage claim and immigration area. Oops. So, at this point, I am in a random city in China where no one speaks English, and I am supposed to figure out how the heck to get back to my plane that will probably be leaving at anytime now. OMG! So, I get mild anxiety just thinking about it. and make my way to the nearest help desk, speak with 4 people before I find someone who can finally speak English, then get pointed to another help desk, walk over there, more freaking out, the second person at this counter can speak English and can understand that I messed up. Embarassed but relieved, this airport security dude comes to get me and escorts me through all of the checkpoints I could have avoided had I gone the right way the first time. I go through customs, through carry on check, through this and through that while this security guy is laughing at me for sure. I am sure this happens ALL the Time by people like me…. Or so I am letting myself believe so I don’t feel so darn stupid! I arrive to the gate just in time to re-board the flight. Phew. I made it. Barely. And everything is okay. And now I can laugh at this wonderful memory I just added to my life.

Last full day in Beijing

My time in Beijing has gone by so quickly! Even though this city is so big and I’ve only had 8 days to explore its territory, I definitely feel like I’ve done it right! Starting with the Great Wall, The Parks, the Temples, the nightlife and the Beijing Duck, I couldn’t have asked for more of this wonderful city. I know that my experience would have been different had I not stayed with Darah and Marshall. They’ve had 9 months of living here to hand pick the amazing restaurants we visited and share with me the ins and outs of this city. Also, it would have been a completely different experience had I not been with Marshall, who speaks the language. I would imagine that a one week vacation to Beijing, not knowing the language and not staying with friends who live here, would be amazingly intimidating, somewhat frustrating, and beautifully overwhelming.

On my last full day in Beijing, I woke up early (the first time since the Great Wall), got my American Breakfast at the Bridge CafĂ© and caught up on my blogging. This routine has definitely been my comfort in Beijing, my home away from home. The Marshall and I headed off to 798, the up and coming trendy art district of Beijing. It is a part of the city where old factories and manufacturing buildings were renovated into design studios and art galleries. You have rustic old China paired with trendy new Beijing. The old buildings provide an amazing shell for the new ideas, youth, and freedom of expression that is now accepted in modern China. And in the middle of this art district, there lays the Lebrun James Basketball Court sponsored by Nike. Basically, Nike is genius. They built this full court basketball gym with bleachers and all and covered it with Lebrun James everything. They have basketball games there, shooting contests, you name it, and they have it. And it’s in the middle of up and coming trendy Beijing. Brilliant! In addition to watching a couple of shooting contests, Marshall and I walked in and out of the bizarre art exhibits that lined the complex. This place was also a photographer’s dream. I thought of Denaye and Marco often and I imagined them both with their cameras, being creative with the angles and snapping away at the surroundings vs. actually entering inside any of the exhibits. We did both and I have to admit, the art was a little abstract for my own tastes, but I love taking the pictures!

And since it was my last full day in China and its China, I couldn’t get just 1 cheap but amazing massage. So, we went back to Oriental Taipan and got another 90 minute foot massage. This time we added on a 20 minute head massage (all for under $30, no tipping). It was a little slice of heaven. And though I felt a bit indulgent, who can pass it up? We were supposed to head back to our place before heading out for the night but our 20 minute head massage was more important that a wardrobe change… so onto the next item, one more visit to Yashow market for last minute shopping. J It was today I realized that these people do not say no to you. So start lower than you think to start, and don’t negotiate up. Just state your final price up front and it’ll speed up the tedious but entertaining process of purchasing. And Beijing wouldn’t be complete without going to the local Mexican restaurant named Cantina and eating dinner while the BEST American Hip Hop mix is blaring throughout the joint. I felt like I was at En Fuego and it was Taco Tuesday-except I was in Beijing and there weren’t any Mexicans. In fact, this place was where all foreigners went to eat! It was pretty funny! Darah met us at dinner along with their friend Elizabeth. After great conversations, 2 orders of mile-high nachos and a few margaritas, we headed to a lounge called Mesh and then back to Punk (my third time there this week!). As scrubby as I looked, and as out of place that made me feel, I am glad we went out on my last night there. I felt like the week went full circle as the place I first visited in China was also my last. And as most of the nights ended this week, we were fast asleep the whole 45 minute cab ride home to Wudouko.

Beijing Duck

Thursday night, Darah and Marshall took me to the BEST restaurant in all of Beijing to experience Beijing Duck! I am a big duck fan already so I knew I would like it. And it was the BEST I’d ever had. They bring the whole duck out to the table and slice it in front of you. You eat the duck in the form of a soft taco. You start with a flour tortilla, and then add thinly slivered white onion and watermelon, the duck, and then special sauces. You fold it up and eat. It was a nice dinner and it definitely made my trip to Beijing complete!

The Summer Palace and Fragrant Hill

I spent most of Thursday with Marshall visiting some of the most beautiful parks in Beijing; Summer Palace and Fragrant Hill. Summer Palace is spectacular and much different than the other parks I visited on my Tuesday excursion. You could get lost in the park, and in fact, we did! We walked along the lake for a bit, peaked inside some preserved buildings, and took a boat across the lake to the north east side of the park, where we hiked up many many many steps to a Tibetan Buddhist temple at the highest point of the Summer Palace. The views were amazing from up there, unforgettable. Marshall bought a deck of cards at the top with the names of the past Chinese Emperors displayed on each card. I enjoyed my ice cream as we peacefully walked down the back side of the centuries-old temples. Although my connection to Darah and Marshall was initially through Darah, it was really nice to spend some quality time with Marshall. We talked religion, politics, economics, and career and really bonded on our journey through the magical park. Darah and Marshall, you are great people individually and genuinely amazing as a couple. I am so glad I had this time with both of you and appreciate you both so much!

In addition to seeing live karaoke at the park, I also saw my first split pants bathroom break in action! A little boy went pee in public on the ground at the Summer Palace right through his split pants. Haha. I love it! Marshall also pointed out to me that many boyfriends will hold the purses of their spouses/girlfriends when in public. It is supposedly a very Chinese thing to do and once Marshall pointed it out, I couldn’t stop noticing the handbags dangling from the arms of the men courting their love interests. Hmm… how can we bring this etiquette to the US?
Lastly, I’ve noticed that there aren’t very many children wandering around Beijing, compared to adults. Marshall and my driver David confirmed that it’s because China has a policy that you can only birth 1 child. So many Chinese our age do not have siblings and you’ll see the few toddlers in split pants with their mom, dad, and both sets of grandparents at the parks; 6 adults to 1 child. I also felt like I saw far more male children then female. Food for thought.

Next, we headed up to Fragrant Hill, another park near the Summer Palace, but the name Hill in its name didn’t come from nothing. It was literally a hill up to some point Marshall and I didn’t dare try to find out. We hiked up this amazingly beautiful hill with paved trails until we didn’t feel like it anymore. We took a mini-break at this courtyard where picnic tables were set up and a snack place lay. There a few others at this courtyard, about 7 locals playing cards at one of the tables. Marshall and I ordered a beer some pistachios, whipped out the deck of emperor cards and played Speed. Oh yes, I taught Marshall my favorite card game ever! The local ladies playing their card game found us entertaining I am sure and we quickly raced to lay down all of the cards in our hands. In between each round, we’d devour more pistachios and drink some more beer, then onto the next round of Speed. I must have been a great teacher, because Marshall won the Speed championship round. You’re welcome Marshall. I won’t tell your competitive spirit that I let you win! (Just kidding!)

The Art of the Calculator

Wednesday in Beijing was one of a kind! I designated the whole day (after my American breakfast and blogging) for Yashow shopping. Yashow is one of the many big shopping areas in Beijing but the only one where the calculator is in full force! I learned something new on this trip… that there actually is a reason the Chinese use calculators when showing you their “Best Price”.

It’s all about negotiation at Yashow. You walk in the building and see nothing but vendor after vendor of the SAME exact stuff being sold at each booth/section. You enter in on the clothing section where hundreds of young mostly female vendors wearing pink shirts are calling you over to their booth to get you to buy their clothes. There are about 5 floors full of clothes, watches, shoes, souvenirs, scarves, purses, belts, and more.

The first time is definitely overwhelming, which is why I went with Darah on Sunday, just to check it out. But this time, I was all by myself and prime target for these young professional salespeople ready to rip off tourists!

So here is how a typical negotiation works at Yashow:

Salesperson: “Lady Lady, you need pearl necklace. I have nice ones, real pearls, best quality.”
Steph: Let me take a look at what you have…. Okay I’ll take this one, how much?”
Salesperson: (Quickly whips out her calculator attached to her belt and types in the starting price but NEVER says it out loud) “Normally I charge” (shows calculator screen showing 1200) “but for you, and because your nice and beautiful, I only charge you this much” (shows me calculator displaying 850)
Steph: Gasps b/c its way overpriced then starts to laugh out loud b/c it’s such a joke of a starting price “That’s more than I would pay in the US and that is TOO Much”
Salesperson: Ok lady, how much you want to pay?
Steph: Grabs the calculator and types 30.
Salesperson: Gasps back at me and says, “Lady, you breaka my heart. That is too low. I can’t sell to you at that price. You make me so angry. This is the besta quality. Fresh water pearl, you know. Only the best.
Steph: I start to slowly walk away from the booth as I say, “Okay then I don’t want it”
Salesperson: Lady, Lady come back here. Okay Okay. Make me your best offer. C’mon, a little higher. I can’t sell at your price!”
Steph: I grab the calculator and type 30 again.
Saleperson: Ladyyyyyyy, C’mon, I really lika you. I want to sell to you but I can’t at this price. Just a little higher, c’mon. Okay, I’ll show you last price I can sell. Last price and no more. I can’t go any lower” She types in the calculator 150.
Steph: Starts to walk away again, deep down knowing they will not let you walk away from their booth because if they don’t get the sale, another booth with that same exact item will sell it to you for that price. “30”
Salesperson: Starts raising her voice as I am getting farther and farther away from the booth, “Okay, lady come back her… come back. Okay, 100…… 80”
Steph: “30”
Salesperson: “60….. 50….40….. 35 is as low as I can go. 35 or no sale. Okay Okay Okay 30. Come back.

The sale is made and you end up with an item that start at 1200 Quai and got it for 30 Quai. RIDICULOUS.

But what I realized is that the calculator is a way to privately show you and only you what their “Best Price” is. There are lots of other tourists and locals shopping nearby and the sales people don’t want to let others know how good of a deal you are getting, if you know how to play the game. Of course they always make you feel like you are winning, but by the end of the day, I’d realized I’d lost my first few rounds of negotiation and overpaid for my goods.

Of the 7 total hours I spent perfecting the art of the calculator negotiation, I walked away with lots of gifts to bring home and an unforgettable experience shopping the Chinese way.

Bring it China!